LIVER. IL FEGATO. LE FOIE. EL HÍGADO. LEVERN.
When I was a child we had cow’s liver at least once a week. It was a very common (and cheap) food. We always had it with mashed potatoes and loads of fried onions and fried apple slices. I liked my liver just slightly rare in the middle, so that it would be soft and juicy. That was during the late 60ies and early 70ies. Like all things, food is subjected to fashion and in the early seventies chicken liver became the thing to eat. It was fried together with onions, garlic, red and green peppers and then left to stew in Sherry. It was served with white rice.
What you eat reflects your attitude and lifestyle, doesn’t it? When I became a young mother I turned health conscious and experimented with vegetarian food, and whole food, followed by a phase of Asian cooking. At the same time we had many food scares in Germany, the worst perhaps the fear of BSE or cow madness, and liver disappeared from the shops.
During the last months I have now and then seen liver at the butcher’s, but still, I feel uneasy about buying it. Liver is food of another era, the same era in which we considered cow’s tongue in white wine sauce (almost free of fat and very tender meat), a delicacy, had whipped egg with sugar as a sweet and thought nothing of eating ‘Bregenwurst’, a sausage, that at that time still contained some brain of pigs.